- Compost is the best way to improve your soil
- If you use compost you probably won’t need to use fertilizer
- Compost doesn’t harm beneficial organisms like earthworms (chemicals do)
- If you have a yard, you are already doing most of the work to make compost
- Compost is free, easy, and saves energy
- You can start a compost pile any time you have material for it
This compost pile is already 155 degrees F after only 3 days! A hot pile like this does a good job of killing weed seeds and disease organisms.
How to do it
- Use your lawn mower to chop up leaves, and then go over them again and use the grass catcher to collect the chopped leaves. If you don’t want to chop up your leaves you certainly don’t have to, but you won’t have to empty the grass catcher nearly as often if you do, and your compost will have a much finer texture.
- Use your lawn mower/grass catcher to collect grass clippings.
- Combine 3 parts leaves with 1 part grass clippings in layers to build your compost pile. I use hoops of wire mesh fencing to contain my compost piles, but it will work fine if you just pile it up without any kind of container or bin. Don’t get too hung up on that 3 to 1 ratio, it’s just a rough guideline. It’s fine to just judge by eye – no need to measure.
- Your pile should heat up within a few days, if not, it is most likely too dry – add water until the pile is moist through and through. If your materials are quite dry sprinkle each layer with water as you build the pile.
- Once the pile has heated up and cooled back down mix the pile using a rotor tiller if you have one, otherwise turn it using a pitch fork or shovel – if you aren’t in any hurry at all then don’t bother turning (mixing) the pile. Given enough time your compost will finish anyway. However turning the pile just one time will greatly speed the process, and improve the results.
- If you are in a hurry, then turn the pile every few days as soon as it starts to cool down – this will make what is often called a fast/hot compost pile, and is very good for killing weed seeds and disease organisms.
- When the pile will no longer heat up after turning it your compost is finished. If you are making slow compost then when it looks well decomposed it’s ready.
- Compost that you make like this is far better than that which is available at home centers. In many cases store bought compost is made primarily out of bark mulch and will harm your soil in the near term by tyeing up most of the soil nitrogen.
My yard has a lot of trees in it so every fall I have to remove leaves, and in the spring I have to mow grass every 5-7 days. Since I have to remove the leaves and mow the lawn anyway I’m already doing most of the work involved in making compost. By putting together my grass clippings and leaves, I make a great balanced compost that finishes quickly, and is a great soil amendment. I don’t use any fancy store-bought compost bins or “compost starters” and I don’t do a lot of work turning the compost (unless I just want to). I also don’t go about collecting compostable materials. Although I probably would if I didn’t have a big yard, because even though I make a pretty large quantity of compost using this method, there are so many uses for it that it’s never too much. For a compost pile to decompose reasonably fast you need to have a mixture of high carbon materials (dry leaves), high nitrogen materials (green grass clippings), air and moisture. The bulk of my compost pile is made up of grass clippings and leaves, but I also throw in other compostables as they become available. If you don’t care how long it takes for your compost to finish then you don’t really have to worry much about what amount and kind of materials you use – just pile ‘em up in an out of the way place and wait for it to decompose.
Compostables include just about any plant materials from your yard or garden, although woody materials like branches or tough pruning debris will take a long time to break down, and probably should be avoided. Other compostable materials include – hair, livestock manure from any herbivorous animals, egg shells, blood meal, cottonseed meal, peanut hulls, rice hulls, crop residue, straw and hay, stable bedding, coffee grounds, newspaper and cardboard (although using things like this will compromise efforts to be “organic”), pine needles – use your imagination. As mentioned before, woody materials take a long time to break down – years. If you do use wood products like sawdust, branches, or bark mulch you should be aware that if you add these materials to your soil before they are fully decomposed they will absorb and tie up a large amount of the nitrogen in your soil and significantly lower the fertility, and they tend to be highly acidic.
Pretty much any organic material will break down into compost if given enough time, but there are a few things you should avoid – meat, flesh, bones or fat of any kind – feces from any animal that eats meat, especially from dogs, cats, or people – Never use these at all because of severe risk of disease. Also avoid; large amounts of watery fruits or vegetables such as tomatoes, oranges, cucumbers, melons, etc – large quantities of prepared food – oil or grease – anything that might draw flies, rodents, or pets. The problem with most of these materials is that they will either become infested with fly larva or take too long to break down, or they will attract varmints, are hazardous to your health or all of the above.
Vegetables (including the watery ones listed above) and non-meat table scraps can be added in small quantities to the middle of a “hot” compost pile without problems.
What do you do with all of this Compost once you make it?
- Work it into your soil at planting time for any plant
- Use as a mulch to suppress weeds while increasing fertility
- Mix with equal parts of peat moss and pearlite or vermiculite for outdoor potting mix.
- The area around a compost pile is a great place to find fishing worms.
- Add as a side dressing (on top of the ground) just as you would use chemical fertilizer for ornamentals.
- Make “Compost Tea” (liquid fertilizer) by soaking a cloth or mesh bag full of compost in a bucket of water.
- Making compost reduces the need for petroleum based and other chemical fertilizers so we don’t have to send as many soldiers to secure our supply of oil.
- Using compost helps to tie up carbon into the soil instead of going back into the atmosphere as CO2, and helps to prevent global warming.
- Compost doesn’t pollute our water supplies or cause nasty algae blooms like chemical fertilizer.
- Food grown using compost and other organic methods tastes better and is better for you.
Addendum – Can You Start a Compost Pile in the Winter – Will it Compost?
It is absolutely OK to start one in the winter – as long as it’s big enough. I just finished putting one together on Saturday (December 27), yesterday (Jan 1) it was 150 degrees about 10 inches in – almost hot enough to scald my hand. You can literally heat a house with a big pile like this.
The outer layers insulate the rest of the pile so that it can heat up, so a big pile does better in cold weather than a small pile. Minimum size? 2.5 – 3 ft. outside dimension. If your pile is much smaller it might not heat up in cold weather.
If you don’t have enough material to make a pile that big you can get a bale or two of straw or hay – old or spoiled is fine - and 2-3 pounds of blood meal (or other high nitrogen organic material) per bale to mix with your other ingredients and it will stretch what you have, and make good compost – a little bit stringy, but still good.
With a small pile you really should turn it as soon as it starts to cool down to keep it’s metabolism up. Make sure you moisten the layers as you build – especially if you use hay or straw. Once it’s going, you can add additional material as you get it by burying it in the hot compost.
If you don’t want to do all of that, then just save your ingredients until you have enough, or the weather warms up. Put the greens (high nitrogen) in one pile and the browns (high fiber/carbon) in another until you are ready to combine them.
thank you for the tips, very helpful
@loise
Thanks for the comment. This is a great time of year to build a compost pile with lots of fresh green grass clippings to work with. If you find yourself running short of leaves you can also use spoiled hay, or even fresh hay, but that would be a bit wasteful – your compost will look a bit stringy, but it will still be good.
I’ve noticed in other articles advice that you should not use materials which might contain weed seeds, but I have never found that to be a problem. When I pull weeds they go right into the compost pile, and I’ve never had a problem with it. I think that the combination of heat and moisture either sprouts them and kills the young plant or just plain pasteurizes them outright. I make tons of potting soil out of my compost and never have more than an occasional weed come up in it – no more than in store bought potting soil.
Happy Gardening!
eew
Thanks for making this process so easy to understand. I’m new at this composting thing, so I’m looking forward to using this to obtain more compost and try my hand at sustainable gardening. Have you seen the price of a head of lettuce lately?!
Is it ok to start a compost pile in the winter time and can you make to big of a compost pile ?
Brandon,
Good Question. You can start a compost pile any time of year – I just put one together over the past couple of weekends. It’s about 7′ wide by 4 feet tall, and it’s already nice and hot about 10 inches in.
You aren’t likely to make a pile that is too big, and the bigger it is the better it will heat up because the outer layers act as insulation.
You can make one that is too little though – especially in cold weather – I would probably consider anything much less than a 2 1/2 foot cube to be too little in the winter time. Much smaller and it might just sit there and freeze.
Thanks. Is it okay to start a compost pile in the winter? Does it still compost?
Jennifer,
It is absolutely OK to start one in the winter – as long as it’s big enough. I just finished putting one together on Saturday, yesterday it was 150 degrees about 10 inches in – almost hot enough to scald my hand.
The outer layers insulate the rest of the pile so that it can heat up, so a big pile does better in cold weather than a small pile. Minimum size? 2.5 – 3 ft. outside dimension. If your pile is much smaller it might not heat up in cold weather.
If you don’t have enough material to make a pile that big you can get a bale or two of straw or hay – old or spoiled is fine – and 2-3 pounds of blood meal (or other high nitrogen organic material) per bale to mix with your other ingredients and it will stretch what you have, and make good compost – a little bit stringy, but still good.
With a small pile you really should turn it as soon as it starts to cool down to keep it’s metabolism up. Make sure you moisten the layers as you build – especially if you use hay or straw. Once it’s going, you can add additional material as you get it by burying it in the hot compost.
Hi. Great website. Thank you for sharing the information. Is there a danger that you will ‘burn’ all of the nitrogen out of the compost by letting it heat up too much?
No, I don’t think so. The nitrogen is bound up in soluble organic compounds – nitrates and nitrites and is not all that volatile. The heat is a product of (good) bacterial metabolism which kills weed seeds and pathogens – it’s a good thing.
Hi there David,
I’m considering starting a raised garden and would rather make my own compost. I was wondering if sheep poo and the bedding (wood shavings, ceder I think) could replace leaves and grass?
Thanks in advance!
The sheep manure is a very good composting material (contains lots of weed seeds though), but lots of sawdust or wood shavings will bind up nitrogen in a form which is not usable by plants until it breaks down – a long time, years even. basically sucking all of the nitrogen fertility away from the plants. If you have access to stable bedding which has lots of wood shavings in it you can either add it sparingly along with other materials to a hot pile or you can pile it up and let it age for a year or so and then use it to build a hot pile to kill the weed seeds. It’s good material, you just don’t want to use too much of it until it breaks down.
Alternatively you can bury it rather deep under a bed (at least 12 inches under) where it can slowly feed your plants without doing any harm. The worms would love that.
Thank you so much. Maybe I’ll bury it…
Also any books you would recomend for my first time with a raised garden?
Burying your sheep dip nice and deep will be a great way to build your raised beds in the French intensive way.
Raised beds are just the way that you arrange your garden so that you concentrate your soil improvement and never have to step an the growing area.
Exactly what you do in those beds can be either very labor intensive or not depending on the methods that you use. Google for “French Intensive gardening” and “Ruth Stout” two very different raised bed methods with faithful followers.
I’ve learned about these things over a long period of time – first hands on from my Wife’s Grandfather who was a subsistence farmer and then from the now defunct Organic Gardening magazine, and then from many books and the internet. To tell the truth much of it is full of dubious and unsubstantiated claims – don’t believe everything you hear no matter where it comes from. I’ve learned the most by working at it and trying new things after considering what others have done.
I still have a lot to learn.
I just found your site and I am so thankful!! I wanted to pick you brain if I may. We have a wood burning stove and wondered if the ashes are good to put on the garden to be tilled in or for putting in a compost pile. We live in North Central Texas. Thanks!!
It depends. If your soil is acid then a moderate amount of ashes can be a good thing. Ashes will raise the soil ph and make it less acid and are rich in some beneficial nutrients – potassium especially. When the ashes first get wet they produce lye – potasium hydroxide – which is highly corrosive, but which reacts with other things in the soil and breaks down pretty fast. If your soil is already alkali then adding ashes is probably not going to be good. In any event don’t use too many, and generally apply them weeks or months before the growing season. Don’t use ashes that contain residue of anything other than untreated wood.
I was wondering about using my dogs hair in the compost. Is that O.K. ? Also, I use Frontline on my dog. Will that have any effect on the microorganisms in the compost? Weird question, I know.
That is absolutely not normal. Clearly your dog needs a real animal carcass to play with.
My dog goes crazy when I turn the compost. He starts rolling around and burying his nose in the pile. It’s like he’s found an animal carcass. Is this normal? Yes I know, another weird question. I hope you can help.
Thanks A Lot.
Dog hair = OK. Frontline – I don’t know about that. From a strictly organic position I’d say no. From a more pragmatic position I’d need to know what it is, how it effects people and how (and how long) it breaks down.
Anything that you put in a compost pile is apt to be contaminated with something.
Hair of any kind takes a LONG time to really break down, but in the mean time it doesn’t hurt anything, and it is organic.
Thanks for the info on the hair. I bought a compost thermometer and started using it last Saturday. I checked the temp and it was about 140°. It had been about a week since I turned the pile, so I went ahead and did it. I also layered in a box of dog hair. Then I watered the pile, mixed, and watered again. I then raked the pile back into a nice sized mound(3+ feet tall & 5+ feet wide) and watered the outside of the mound. I inserted the thermometer down at an angle so it was right in the middle. The temp rose to 100° in a few minutes. So now it’s been 5 days and the temp is approaching 130°. I’d like to have a hot fast compost, so what’s the best thing to add to get it going? Should I add blood meal, green grass clippings, or manure? Or all three? Also, what’s better chicken or horse manure?
Thanks again for the previous help. I’m sure this site will save me tons of money on future outdoor projects.
Thanks A Lot.
Green grass clippings work great as do blood meal and manure. However horse manure contains a lot of weed seeds – which is alright as long as the pile is going to be good and hot for a while. At some point you want to stop adding stuff and just let it finish up – continue turning it and keep it damp. When it will no longer heat up it’s finished.
My compost pile got to about 120° and stayed there for about a week. Now it’s at about 110°. I’m trying to get some bags of grass clippings from our gardener to help bring up the temp. I’m also getting two trash cans full of composted horse manure. Hopefully this will bring the pile up to between 150° & 160°. If the pile reaches this temp, how many degrees should it drop before I turn it? If I can’t get the temp up that high, and it stays between 110° & 130°, how many degrees should it drop before turning? Also, when the compost is finished, should the temp be the same as the outdoor temp, or a little warmer?
Thanks Again For All The Help.